Напишите краткий пересказ текста на eighteen-year-old bethany hamilton paddles furiously into the gigantic wave. as she feels the back of the board lift, she leans forward, then quickly pushes herself up, plants her feet on her board and carefully rides the wave as it moves quickly towards the beach. all this is nothing unusual for a champion surfer, but for bethany it is a total miracle! in 2003, bethany had already won several competitions and had plans to become a professional surfer. then, one sunny october morning, she was surfing with her friends on a beach near kauai, hawaii. suddenly, a four-metre-long tiger shark attacked her, ripping off her arm.most people would have become very depressed after such a tragedy, but bethany amazed everyone. they couldn’t believe their eyes when they saw her getting back on her surfboard only three weeks after her terrifying experience. this was not easy, though. apart from the difficulties of learning to surf with just one arm, she also had to face her fear of getting attacked by a shark again. ‘it’s always in my mind, ’ she says, ‘and it always will be, but i’ve got to keep my mind on having fun, and just surfing.’bethany is not only a champion surfer, but her positive attitude is also an inspiration to many. she has even been to thailand to help children who experienced the 2004 tsunami disaster with their fear of water. sometimes, bethany asks herself ‘why me? ’ but then she thinks of how her experience has helped her be a better person. bethany’s motto is ‘me quit? never! ’